Run for the border wine

Are they French or German? Who cares? The wines of Fritz Becker are a taste of Pinot Noir heaven, writes JOHN WILSON

THE NATIONAL BOUNDARIES of Europe sometimes cut right through wine regions with little regard for local history or tradition. The German village of Schweigen-Rechtenbach is a case in point. However, Angela Merkel and François Hollande can be proud of the compromises reached in this corner of Europe, where French and German seem to have reached an amicable solution to their differences.

In 1939, the Maginot Line ran along the hills overlooking one side of the town, the Siegfried Line on the other. Not surprisingly, when hostilities broke out the town was badly damaged, and then suffered a serious pasting from the Americans a few years later. The vineyards were also destroyed.

After the war, ownership of much of the land was ceded to France. However, the French needed water from the reservoir, which lay on the German side. The Germans wanted their vineyards back. So the two were swapped – a modern version of water being turned into wine?

As a result almost 80 per cent of Fritz Becker’s vines lie in France. The remainder are in Germany, along with his tiny winery. The same goes for most of his colleagues. Until recently Becker was obliged to carry his passport into the vineyards at all times in case he was stopped by border guards. Strangely, the “French” part of Becker’s wine may be labelled German, but the opposite does not hold true. A blend of the two will therefore always be German. On this occasion, it is France that loses out.

Becker is a seventh generation winemaker. His father Friedrich left the village co-operative in 1973 and began to produce his own wine. He had travelled to Baden and then on to Burgundy, where he discovered that historically Pinot Noir (known as Spätburgunder in Germany) had been grown in this part of the world.

He was the first in the area to replant it. In fact, back then, the entire village thought Becker senior quite mad to be planting Pinot Noir when they made very good money from huge crops of Müller Thurgau grapes that were turned into cheap Liebfraümilch. Nowadays some have planted Pinot Noir, which they sell to the local co-operative in France. Others, however, says Fritz, “still don’t realise that Pinot Noir is our future here”. His father seems to have bought all of the best vineyard sites in the 1970s. By the 1980s he started to produce, at first crisp dry mineral-laden white wines, and then some excellent Pinot Noir.

The estate is 18 hectares in area, with another 12 recently added. They would like to expand further but vineyards are difficult to buy, as most belong to “weekend winemakers” who work elsewhere and farm the family plot at weekends. The three best vineyards are Sonnenberg, Sankt Paul and Kammerberg, all lying on stony, chalky soils high above the village.

“We are always seeking acidity for our whites and reds,” says Fritz, “but the Pinot in particular. Our task is to get perfectly ripe fruit with good acidity – it is not always easy. We need a long, slow ripening period.”

The Beckers produce a range of excellent white wines, including some thrilling Rieslings. However, Pinot Noir is the house speciality. Pinot producers the world over will suggest that their wines are similar to those made in Burgundy; very few ever are. However, in the case of Becker, I found myself reaching for all of the words I use to describe great Burgundy. These are superb wines: balanced, refined, yet fresh and full of fruit.

Each vineyard’s wine was different, reflecting the soils from which they came. My only regret is that there is so little available (less than 10,000 cases a year in total) – and the cost. Most of the wine is mopped up by German Pinotphiles who are happy to pay relatively high prices. Schweigen is also at the end of the Weinstrasse, a popular tourist route in summer, so cellar-door sales are good too. That said, great wine rarely comes cheap.

Fritz’s father was reluctant to hand over the reins, but he took over in 2005 and they now work closely together.

“We are both strong characters and often disagree, sometimes loudly,” he says with a grin. “But [it’s] always positive.” Given that many critics rate him as Germany’s finest wine producer, he is a refreshingly modest young man. This week, I feature two Becker wines, along with two other very good German Pinots.

Friedrich Becker Spätburgunder 2010, 13.5%, €18.99This has an attractive nose of sweet cherries and caramel. The palate has delicious piquant dark cherry and redcurrant fruits with a lovely refreshing finish. Fritz says he finds the alcohol a little high. I would disagree. In Pinot terms, this is fantastic value. Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Cabot and Co, Westport; Mortons, Galway; Poppy Seed, Clarinbridge, Galway

Palataia Pinot Noir 2010, Pfalz, 13.5%, €12.99This has nice lifted aromas, clean summer fruits, and good refreshing acidity. Succulent and smooth, this is a very attractive wine, and very good value too; serve with lighter red meats or poultry dishes. Stockists: Marks Spencer

Geil Spätburgunder Rheinhessen 2011, 13.5%, €14.95Consumed over a two-day period, this was delicious: soft, ripe and delicate with sweet pure red fruits and a soft finish. It is possibly best on its own or with light food, as it is gentle in style. Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Corkscrew, Chatham Street; Thomas's, Foxrock; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Donnybrook Fair;Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Martins, Fairview; Power Smullen, Lucan; Probus Wines, Dublin 2 and Oughterard; Williams Adams, Dundrum; The Parting Glass, Enniskerry; Wicklow Arms, Delgany; La Touche Wines, Greystones; The Wicklow Wine Company

Friedrich Becker Spätburgunder Sankt Paul Grosses Gewächs 2008, 13%, €79.99My notes from the visit, which can reach hyperbolic proportions at tastings, said "Pinot nirvana" and "a ringer for a top Chambolle-Musigny". Still, in retrospect, a brilliant wine, light with meaty dark fruits, fine acidity and excellent length. Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Cabot and Co, Westport; Mortons, Galway; Poppy Seed, Clarinbridge, Galway